Kebabs, Biryani and a World More: An Indian Metropolis Earns a Spot on the UNESCO Gastronomy List.
Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network β including it in a select roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and lively food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city β after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 β to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and diverse city β the administrative center of India's largest state β is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs β as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers β is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani β the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat β spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls β hidden delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history β influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to explore these stories and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.